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Paintball
is an interesting game. Unlike any other game, we
can play anywhere. What we play on an airball field
can be taken into the woods, or a junkyard, or even
into a town setting. It's the latter that we're going
to hit this month: doing it in an urban terrain.
I've never been a fan of urban
styles of play: not because I don't find it fun; I just
find it painful. Years ago while playing a field in
Wisconsin, a friend of mine took one to the side of
his face. Back in the day, JT Whipper Snappers didn't
have the face protection the masks offer now and he
had a hickey that made his girlfriend wonder for weeks.
But I'll go mix it up in the buildings. I happen to
like themed fields like the bombed-out city at Hollywood
Sports, which is all building-to-building stuff.
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Urban play can take many forms,
including everything from an old auto bone yard to glitzy
Hollywood sets. 
But I want to talk about what is probably the most basic
way to play urban terrain, building to building. One
thing that you'll find is that there is no way to take
a building with a 100-percent success ratio. It won't
happen. No matter how cool your "SWAT" fatigues look,
you will not be able to do it perfectly every time.
The true key to success is being
prepared for the urban play environment. If it's paved,
it will hurt to play on unless you have knee and elbow
pads. Trust me. I've got the scars on my knee from an
incident involving gravel, a themed street, and a baseball
slide. Speaking of pads, use them. I recommend neck
guards, a cap of some kind, and
anything else you can think of. Some think it's "weak"
to wear that much padding. I think it's just a sign
that you don't want to get unnecessarily injured. No
problems with that.
Now, on to the urban sprawl.
For starters, let's look at any given field that's building
to building. Off the top of my head, I can name four
like this within a few hours drive of my house, and
all of them share a few common things besides buildings.
Most are clear cut, meaning the fields are kept to grass
and not overgrown.
In this case, playing a building field isn't much different
from playing any given airball field, except you can
get into the bunkers as well as hide behind them.
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Another
thing they all share in common is the style of buildings.
Most are four walls with windows and roofs. The styles
may change, but the basics never
do.
So right there you
can get a few of the techniques down, just by knowing
that there are a few constants in how to play. I'm going
to start with defense, or playing in or around a building
to hold it. Sometimes you can do more good for your
team by going into a building, putting out the unwelcome
mat and moving in. A building can offer a sense of security
that other structures may not. Just beware that that
sense of security can also come back to hurt you.
So let's start by going
into a building. When you go in, get an idea of your
surroundings before you start to go to town. Check the
angles of the doorways and windows and how they relate
down the field to your opponents. You want to avoid
being "locked in" at all costs. Translation, they keep
your head down and you can't come up for air without
tasting paint.
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“Watch
your side profile. If a defender is on the ball,
and they're playing the building as hard as you
are, they can make a fast move , see some of your
harness, and shoot it.” |
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As a bunker, look at a
building as a place you can work with. One way is to
stay outside it. If you're outside the building, you
can line up shooting lanes through the windows of. It's
harder to thread the needle from 70 feet away than it
is to shoot from the same "needle" when you're inside.
You also want to work all sides of a building, left
and right.
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This
is illegal & you'll scratch your new barrel. |
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Buildings are BIG structures,
usually. So you can go from one side to another without
any problems.
Once you're inside a building, don't stop moving
around. On more than one occasion, I've held off
numbers usually would never have had a chance with because
I move around in a building. Two shots out the left
door, two shots from the right side of a window, back
to the left door, then the right door, then the window
again… Mix it up. You have unrestricted movement in
a building, for all intents and purposes. Take advantage
of it.
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You
want to come out of windows and doorways at odd heights.
The average person, kneeling, is about three feet tall.
Standing, it's a little less than six feet. Come out of
a door about a foot off the ground, poke the barrel out
and shoot. They'll never see it coming.
For protection, use the corners of windows rather than
the sides or bottoms. The advantage is that you can conceal
more of your paintgun and body from the corner of a window
than you can from the bottom or sides.
If that doesn't work, move to
the opposing wall of the building and kneel down. In
this case, it's like playing a loose bunker. You can
control more angles of the field without exposing yourself
unnecessarily. I like to do this in order to snapshoot
from windows. It gives me more room to breathe, and
also offers an opportunity for me to slide to a doorframe
or wherever if the window angle is too much.
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Speaking
of windows, watch your angles. You may be inside a building,
and protected from the whole right side, but your left
could be exposed to the one guy who CAN thread the needle
and hit you. Keep an eye on all the doorways, and most
importantly, be mindful if the bad guys run up on your
building. Point blank exchanges happen, and are not
fun.
One
more thing, and I'll move to attacking.
When you're inside a building, have an escape route.
I've gone into buildings before, knowing my trip was
one way. Either I get eliminated or I own the field.
But, normally, you want to look at the doorways for
an exit route, if you need to. Now I want to talk about
attacking a building. If it's unavoidable, if it's a
part of the scenario you're playing, if it's where the
opponent's flag is, you're going to have to go in.
But
before you do, you want to do all you can to soften
it up a bit. From long range, pour in the long ball.
Normally, I'm not a fan of high-volume shooting, but
in this case it's probably the best thing you can do.
When you rain in paint, you make it dangerous for the
defenders to poke their heads up. By doing that, you
make it possible to approach a building from one side
without the defenders in the building seeing the move.
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Assuming you can do this,
and it's easier than you may think, you can pretty
much run up to a building.
Unless you're Superman,
you can't see through walls. But neither can your
opponents in the building. Flatten
out against the wall, away from the windows and
doors.
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You
don't want them to see any part of you from inside the
building. If they as much as put the barrel out the
window to shoot, put a ball on it. A barrel hit is just
as good as a goggle hit in my book. I've knelt under
a window to shoot up and hit someone's hopper when they
stuck it out of a window.
Watch
your side profile, too. If a defender is on the ball,
and they're playing the building as hard or harder than
you are, they can make a fast move into a corner, see
some of your harness, and shoot it. And one more thing
before I move on. Don't try to pop through the window
yourself.
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The
defender is set up and waiting to do the same thing.
At best, you'll trade you for them. At worst, you'll
get shot a dozen times point blank because you just
scared the blazes out of someone by magically appearing
in front of them in a window frame.
But here's the freak show item. The cocking rod is gone!
Okay, it's not gone. It's gone internal. The new hammer
is longer, and inside of it is the space where the cocking
rod once would have stayed out past the back block.
Now it resides inside the hammer!
Even if you can't get up close
to the building, you can play mind games with a defender
in a building. Shoot a few balls, then stop. Stay on
your position, and when you see movement, put a ball
in there. You want to let them feel it's safe to come
out the window again, so you can put paint on them.
You'll get more eliminations by letting the other team
run into your paint than any other way.
If you're working a field of buildings, use the boundaries
to move around the field. Depending on the boundary
itself, you may be able to work in an alleyway, a room-to-room
scenario, or some cover outside the actual town.
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Keep an eye in the buildings,
and look up. You can also use any natural cover on the
boundaries like trees, scrub brush, and so on. Just
realize that you may not be able to see inside a darkened
building, but the occupants can see out just fine.
Now the fun part. Driving.
When you're going to enter a hostile enclosure, it's
called "driving a building" or "driving through a building."
It's a very messy affair, and
not a pleasant thing to do from either side of the equation.
Even the most highly trained members of a SWAT team
drill this over and over, eventually getting it down
after hundreds of dry runs.
Ideally, you want at least two
people entering a building. Four to five attackers are
actually better, but if it's all you have, two will
work. Realize that since two people can't usually make
it through a door at the same time, the first one in
has to be gutsy and trust his partner totally.
It's all about knowing your role,
trusting your teammate completely, and then doing your
job. You want to set up your move by standing against
the wall with everyone lined up, ready to push into
the building. The lead attacker is the one who decides
the moment.
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The first one in the building
is at the most risk, obviously. But the job of this
player is to check the area right inside the doorway,
sweeping the barrel toward the inside of the room. So
if the door is along the right wall of a room, the lead
man steps in, sweeps 90 degrees to his left, makes sure
it's clear of bad guys, then sweeps 45 degrees to face
the opposing corner.
At the same time, the second in is pointed straight
ahead to clear everything, from the back wall to the
corner of the room. The second will enter the room as
soon as the first steps to the side, but he's over the
shoulder of the first before he does this. If you need
to, put the barrel literally on his shoulder so the
muzzle tip is past him.
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don't want to shoot someone in the back of the head point
blank if you don't have to. Especially your own teammate.
They hate that.
If you have more in your group,
the next in the room will sweep the room as he enters,
and ideally the last in line is watching behind the
group. That's the idea. The reality is that the first
guy enters the room, causing the defender to panic and
start shooting. In the chaos that follows, paint is
shot in anger and it can be a mess. Here's one thing
that I can recommend, however, if you're going to take
a building like this. If you've got one, a paint grenade
is a great tool for clearing a room. You want to throw
it in so it hits the opposite wall, and bounces back
toward the door. That way, you get the maximum coverage
of spray with minimum exposure. Just toss it in like
a hook shot, hard enough to set it off, and bring your
hand back fast while keeping your body completely on
the other side of the doorway. It's not the ultimate
answer, but it certainly can make taking a room of a
building easier if it's already been "softened up."
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I'll be the first to admit
that it never quite works like that. You're lucky
to get an organized move through a doorway, let alone
a well-choreographed dance of paintballs and players
moving like a well-oiled machine. But I can dream, can't
I?
Urban settings offer a nice
break from the woods style we're all used to.
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And with many fields building sets, or villages, or even
castle structures, odds are you'll be on one sooner or
later.As a parting bit of advice, watch your footwear.
While playing in Long Island once my cleats failed to
grip on the slick wood of a porch in front of a building.
The total damage was a broken 2X4, a very sore shoulder,
and a collection of amused referees. So I guess the key
really is preparedness, isn't it? |
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