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SHOOT UP THE TOWN
 

Paintball is an interesting game. Unlike any other game, we can play anywhere. What we play on an airball field can be taken into the woods, or a junkyard, or even into a town setting. It's the latter that we're going to hit this month: doing it in an urban terrain.

I've never been a fan of urban styles of play: not because I don't find it fun; I just find it painful. Years ago while playing a field in Wisconsin, a friend of mine took one to the side of his face. Back in the day, JT Whipper Snappers didn't have the face protection the masks offer now and he had a hickey that made his girlfriend wonder for weeks. But I'll go mix it up in the buildings. I happen to like themed fields like the bombed-out city at Hollywood Sports, which is all building-to-building stuff.

Urban play can take many forms, including everything from an old auto bone yard to glitzy Hollywood sets.
But I want to talk about what is probably the most basic way to play urban terrain, building to building. One thing that you'll find is that there is no way to take a building with a 100-percent success ratio. It won't happen. No matter how cool your "SWAT" fatigues look, you will not be able to do it perfectly every time.

The true key to success is being prepared for the urban play environment. If it's paved, it will hurt to play on unless you have knee and elbow pads. Trust me. I've got the scars on my knee from an incident involving gravel, a themed street, and a baseball slide. Speaking of pads, use them. I recommend neck guards, a cap of some kind, and anything else you can think of. Some think it's "weak" to wear that much padding. I think it's just a sign that you don't want to get unnecessarily injured. No problems with that.

Now, on to the urban sprawl.
For starters, let's look at any given field that's building to building. Off the top of my head, I can name four like this within a few hours drive of my house, and all of them share a few common things besides buildings. Most are clear cut, meaning the fields are kept to grass and not overgrown.
In this case, playing a building field isn't much different from playing any given airball field, except you can get into the bunkers as well as hide behind them.


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Another thing they all share in common is the style of buildings. Most are four walls with windows and roofs. The styles may change, but the basics never do.

So right there you can get a few of the techniques down, just by knowing that there are a few constants in how to play. I'm going to start with defense, or playing in or around a building to hold it. Sometimes you can do more good for your team by going into a building, putting out the unwelcome mat and moving in. A building can offer a sense of security that other structures may not. Just beware that that sense of security can also come back to hurt you.

So let's start by going into a building. When you go in, get an idea of your surroundings before you start to go to town. Check the angles of the doorways and windows and how they relate down the field to your opponents. You want to avoid being "locked in" at all costs. Translation, they keep your head down and you can't come up for air without tasting paint.

“Watch your side profile. If a defender is on the ball, and they're playing the building as hard as you are, they can make a fast move , see some of your harness, and shoot it.”

As a bunker, look at a building as a place you can work with. One way is to stay outside it. If you're outside the building, you can line up shooting lanes through the windows of. It's harder to thread the needle from 70 feet away than it is to shoot from the same "needle" when you're inside. You also want to work all sides of a building, left and right.

This is illegal & you'll scratch your new barrel.

Buildings are BIG structures, usually. So you can go from one side to another without any problems.

Once you're inside a building, don't stop moving around. On more than one occasion, I've held off numbers usually would never have had a chance with because I move around in a building. Two shots out the left door, two shots from the right side of a window, back to the left door, then the right door, then the window again… Mix it up. You have unrestricted movement in a building, for all intents and purposes. Take advantage of it.

You want to come out of windows and doorways at odd heights. The average person, kneeling, is about three feet tall. Standing, it's a little less than six feet. Come out of a door about a foot off the ground, poke the barrel out and shoot. They'll never see it coming.
For protection, use the corners of windows rather than the sides or bottoms. The advantage is that you can conceal more of your paintgun and body from the corner of a window than you can from the bottom or sides.

If that doesn't work, move to the opposing wall of the building and kneel down. In this case, it's like playing a loose bunker. You can control more angles of the field without exposing yourself unnecessarily. I like to do this in order to snapshoot from windows. It gives me more room to breathe, and also offers an opportunity for me to slide to a doorframe or wherever if the window angle is too much.

 


Speaking of windows, watch your angles. You may be inside a building, and protected from the whole right side, but your left could be exposed to the one guy who CAN thread the needle and hit you. Keep an eye on all the doorways, and most importantly, be mindful if the bad guys run up on your building. Point blank exchanges happen, and are not fun.

One more thing, and I'll move to attacking.
When you're inside a building, have an escape route. I've gone into buildings before, knowing my trip was one way. Either I get eliminated or I own the field. But, normally, you want to look at the doorways for an exit route, if you need to. Now I want to talk about attacking a building. If it's unavoidable, if it's a part of the scenario you're playing, if it's where the opponent's flag is, you're going to have to go in.

But before you do, you want to do all you can to soften it up a bit. From long range, pour in the long ball. Normally, I'm not a fan of high-volume shooting, but in this case it's probably the best thing you can do. When you rain in paint, you make it dangerous for the defenders to poke their heads up. By doing that, you make it possible to approach a building from one side without the defenders in the building seeing the move.

Assuming you can do this, and it's easier than you may think, you can pretty much run up to a building.

Unless you're Superman, you can't see through walls. But neither can your opponents in the building. Flatten out against the wall, away from the windows and doors.

You don't want them to see any part of you from inside the building. If they as much as put the barrel out the window to shoot, put a ball on it. A barrel hit is just as good as a goggle hit in my book. I've knelt under a window to shoot up and hit someone's hopper when they stuck it out of a window.

Watch your side profile, too. If a defender is on the ball, and they're playing the building as hard or harder than you are, they can make a fast move into a corner, see some of your harness, and shoot it. And one more thing before I move on. Don't try to pop through the window yourself.


The defender is set up and waiting to do the same thing. At best, you'll trade you for them. At worst, you'll get shot a dozen times point blank because you just scared the blazes out of someone by magically appearing in front of them in a window frame.

But here's the freak show item. The cocking rod is gone! Okay, it's not gone. It's gone internal. The new hammer is longer, and inside of it is the space where the cocking rod once would have stayed out past the back block. Now it resides inside the hammer!

Even if you can't get up close to the building, you can play mind games with a defender in a building. Shoot a few balls, then stop. Stay on your position, and when you see movement, put a ball in there. You want to let them feel it's safe to come out the window again, so you can put paint on them. You'll get more eliminations by letting the other team run into your paint than any other way.

If you're working a field of buildings, use the boundaries to move around the field. Depending on the boundary itself, you may be able to work in an alleyway, a room-to-room scenario, or some cover outside the actual town.

Keep an eye in the buildings, and look up. You can also use any natural cover on the boundaries like trees, scrub brush, and so on. Just realize that you may not be able to see inside a darkened building, but the occupants can see out just fine.

Now the fun part. Driving. When you're going to enter a hostile enclosure, it's called "driving a building" or "driving through a building." It's a very messy affair, and not a pleasant thing to do from either side of the equation. Even the most highly trained members of a SWAT team drill this over and over, eventually getting it down after hundreds of dry runs.

Ideally, you want at least two people entering a building. Four to five attackers are actually better, but if it's all you have, two will work. Realize that since two people can't usually make it through a door at the same time, the first one in has to be gutsy and trust his partner totally.

It's all about knowing your role, trusting your teammate completely, and then doing your job. You want to set up your move by standing against the wall with everyone lined up, ready to push into the building. The lead attacker is the one who decides the moment.


The first one in the building is at the most risk, obviously. But the job of this player is to check the area right inside the doorway, sweeping the barrel toward the inside of the room. So if the door is along the right wall of a room, the lead man steps in, sweeps 90 degrees to his left, makes sure it's clear of bad guys, then sweeps 45 degrees to face the opposing corner.
At the same time, the second in is pointed straight ahead to clear everything, from the back wall to the corner of the room. The second will enter the room as soon as the first steps to the side, but he's over the shoulder of the first before he does this. If you need to, put the barrel literally on his shoulder so the muzzle tip is past him.

You don't want to shoot someone in the back of the head point blank if you don't have to. Especially your own teammate. They hate that.

If you have more in your group, the next in the room will sweep the room as he enters, and ideally the last in line is watching behind the group. That's the idea. The reality is that the first guy enters the room, causing the defender to panic and start shooting. In the chaos that follows, paint is shot in anger and it can be a mess. Here's one thing that I can recommend, however, if you're going to take a building like this. If you've got one, a paint grenade is a great tool for clearing a room. You want to throw it in so it hits the opposite wall, and bounces back toward the door. That way, you get the maximum coverage of spray with minimum exposure. Just toss it in like a hook shot, hard enough to set it off, and bring your hand back fast while keeping your body completely on the other side of the doorway. It's not the ultimate answer, but it certainly can make taking a room of a building easier if it's already been "softened up."



I'll be the first to admit that it never quite works like that. You're lucky to get an organized move through a doorway, let alone a well-choreographed dance of paintballs and players moving like a well-oiled machine. But I can dream, can't I?

Urban settings offer a nice break from the woods style we're all used to.

And with many fields building sets, or villages, or even castle structures, odds are you'll be on one sooner or later.As a parting bit of advice, watch your footwear. While playing in Long Island once my cleats failed to grip on the slick wood of a porch in front of a building. The total damage was a broken 2X4, a very sore shoulder, and a collection of amused referees. So I guess the key really is preparedness, isn't it?


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